Tuesday, September 20, 2016

McCalls M7154 Update: Stress

   So I am working on a 1930s dress for a Halloween get together and I am not even cutting into the real fabric yet and I am stressed.

    Currently, I am trying to understand how to do as fba on this thing. The dress has an underbodice and an over bodice, so it's not treated as and doesn't function as a lined piece. The underbodice is a standard two dart bodice construction and is more form fitting. It's inside and not really seen. Then the overbodice is a looser, no dart, free-flowing piece that has a slight shrug appearance.

     The finished measurements on the underbodice are 47 inches, and my full bust 49ish. Both pieces need an fba of about 2.5 inches (an addition space of 5 inches in the finished piece) to fit properly.

   Now on a standard arm and waist dart bodice, the fba is very simple and straight forward, however,
the waist dart is off center from the bust apex about 3/4 inch so trying to get the right fba has been hard. I am already on the third muslin shell for just the underbodice alone. you can kind of see in the picture to the right how there is an undershirt. I would also like to add that even though they are two bodices they do intertwine each other as one.

*What I have done for the next alteration attempt shifted the waist dart to be centered with the bust apex, did a normal fba and then shifted the tip of the dart back to the 3/4 off center it was. Also, since I have added so much room to the side, I had to slightly adjust the position on the side dart as well.*

     Then the next task which I don't think will be too bad, is the overbodice has no darts at all. So I am going to do the dartless bodice fba, and when you do an fba it will automatically add that arm/side dart, then I will do another adjustment to remove that.

Now this is just the bodice, you can see from the pattern pictures that there are also many pieces that create the hips and skirts. I may have to adjust those two.

What did I get myself into????

Wish me luck,

Jessi Harm
Evil Regal

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